Hours: Lunch and dinner seven days
Appetizers: Under $10
Entrees: $10 to $20
Wines by the glass: $3
Reservations accepted bt not usually necessary.

Don't expect culinary surprises—the identical menu is probably carved on a still-buried steel in Egypt somewere and General Tso's chicken will surely make it through the next millinennium. But you'll still find your old favortes plus a few slightly different items like asparagus crabmeat soup or Dance of the Dragon and the Phoenix, a chicken and shrimp dish.

The service is good even though some of the younger members of the staff have little english. The servings are enough for two and the door is spare—no garish lanterns or Day Glo dragons.

By the time we had finished eating, a light drizzle had turned to a down pour. When we reached the door, one of the staff was waiting with an umbrella to escort us to our cars. Did anyone do that for me at Il Pretensioso, after I had spent enough there to rebuild Kosovo? You bet your little socks they didn't.

Best Picks.
Appetizers: All the pu-pu items got high marks for fressness, taste, crispness, and for arriving piping hot. An added bonus was a little iron grill in case anything cooled down.
Entrees: Phonex crispy beef with snow peas, red peppers, water chestnuts, and mushrooms. Pork in black bean sauce. Fry-sauteed string beans. Two-winners: Whole sea bass, crisply fried in a light batter. Hunan Poo, tender duck with the most amazing crunchy skin. The duck was so good that on future visits I intend to work my way down the duck menu—Wor Shu Opp, crispy duck, lychee and pineapple duck.

Dinner seven days. New lounge and restaurant next to the V.F.W.'s army tank. The three young managers were formerly with Saint Anbroeus, and the restaurant will feature similar elegant food (pastas cooked from scratch, etc.) but at low prices. There will also be a late night scene.

Hours: Dinner seven days until late night.
Appetizers: Under $7 to $11
Entrees: $14 to $26
Wines by the glass: $7 t0 $9
Reservations required.

Saracen is a charming rabbit warren of lounges, porches, and dining rooms that ramble on different levels through what was a magnificient house on a creek at Georgica Pond. It's friendly, accomodating, elegant, and, For the Hamptons, reasonably priced.

The Italian menu, with its emphasis on seafood, is imaginative without being bizarre. A different risotto is featured every night. Though there was a long wait for our appetizers, there were complimentary amuses—gueules, baskets of excellent bread replenished before they were empty, and no attitude.

Best Picks.
Appetizers: Polpo scottato, grilled octopus with a red wine sauce, was as good as it sounds. Tuna carpaccio—as thin as rose petals. Grilled figs with Gorgonzola and prociutto brought Tuscan summer to the table.
Pasta: Linguini with fresh artichokes was light and full of subtle natural flavor. Orecchiete wih broccoli rabe and white beans.
Entrees: Seafood is where the restaurant shines. Chilean sea bass with frizzled leeks was perfectly cooked. Swordfish and tuna get highest marks.
Desserts: Chocolate mousse cake. Blueberry crumble.